I now currently have two of these. One in the DKM Scharnhorst and one in the battlestations Mogador. These are very nice, high quality regulators. Price is pretty darn good too. They are easily taken apart for service, maybe a bit too easily as they do tend to unscrew when removing them from the bottle after a sortie when they are frosty cold. Simple enough to use smooth jawed channel locks to start them unscrewing though. All in all a great product. I will be buying more.
i purchased 10 of these regulators when they were on pre-order. i had the ens machined down and a single 1/16th barb threaded in. These are for big gun so the triple outlets are unnecessary. i recently took a couple of spares along to our AGM in Sydney and i didn't walk away with a single spare. they are easy to use extremely light and shorter than the old brass ones i have. they do require a small amount of maintenance ie. opening up and lubrication of the o ring after copping a couple of sinks to ensure nothing breaks the seal between the o-ring and the body. i currently still have 4 left. 1 in my dunkerque, 1 in my alaska class, 1 in my fathers richelieu and 1 in a terror class monitor. highly recommend this product and will be purchasing more in the future.
I'm thinking of buying one of these for my 1/96 Shimakaze. Does anyone have a recommendation for a lubricating oil to use with these?
uh, what happens when this happens? Do you just get a handful of parts, or does the bottle empty in your hand?
The bottle should be shut off. The regulator unscrews about half way down it's length for maintenance, this will sometimes unscrew, instead of the bottle to reg joint. Not a problem, more of an annoyance.
just put a touch of locktite on the thread. this will give enough resistance to unscrew off the botttle instead of unscrewing the reg. i don't believe you need any oil as the oring is rubber. any oil will cause this to perish and you will have to replace the o ring. they are built the same as the old brass ones. simple piston and spring. any good o ring grease or silicon based grease but that shouldn't be necessary as long as you clean out any debris. besides i would grease my bottles and their o ring before doing any of my regs.
yes i understand the requirements of the instructions. however rubber o rings if oiled will perish over time. "oiled" is a generic term and i am making him aware that the choice of lubrication. as "oils ain't oils". re: silicon or o ring grease.
Sorry, you made it sound like it didn't need to be oiled. @Charley do you think you could chime in on the types of "lubrication" that are acceptable for the new BC regulator?
I said oil because the spec sheet said oil. I'm an engineer, I follow the spec sheets unless I know for sure that they are wrong. These are Charley's regulators, so he owns the spec. If he says grease I'll grease and if he says oil I'll oil. Simple as that...
This goes away if you depressurize the system before trying to take the bottle off. It also helps prolong the life of bottle's O-ring.
I always depressurise beforehand. Still does it. Only when it's cold as in rite after a sortie. My club requires the bottle be unscrewed to call a cold pit. I will try some blue locktite.
I use a light air tool oil stay away from anything solevent based. Or reactive to Buna I have also used tri-flow which is a nice oil. I hope this helps guys
I'm interested in where you got the Terror Class hull. The Erebus/Terror hull was the first fiberglass hull I made for the hobby (1996), but because of the difficulty in laying up the hulls (due to the 90 degree junction of bulge and hull side) I made only 4-5 before producing the superior WWII Abercrombie/Roberts monitor hull (now sold by Strike). Did you install a bow rudder, which is allowed for the WWI version of HMS Terror but not the WWII version?
