Deck Screws

Discussion in 'Construction' started by tgalx3, Apr 2, 2025.

  1. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Admiral (Supporter)

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    I currently have a couple traditional screws holding down the decks that I don’t need to access very often.

    I would like to change that out to something I can unscrew with my hand. A wing nut seems a bit excessive. What’s out there?
     
  2. Xanthar

    Xanthar Well-Known Member

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  3. Iunnrais

    Iunnrais Active Member

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  4. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Admiral (Supporter)

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    Nice! Thanks!
     
  5. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    Yup; I think they’ve always looked pretty good on a deck.
    They also squish down my deck seal and add a bit of structural integrity, which I like.



    image.jpg
     
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  6. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Admiral (Supporter)

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    I was thinking I only needed two, one in the middle on each side. But you have yours in the corners. Would that make a difference?
     
  7. JustinScott

    JustinScott Well-Known Member

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    I try to design in as few screws as possible by creating deck overlaps with the Superstructure or deck details.

     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2025
  8. tgalx3

    tgalx3 Admiral (Supporter)

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    Oh ok, so you do have two screws per deck, its just that they are overlapping so you get more coverage.
     
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  9. Commodore

    Commodore Well-Known Member

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    Keeping in mind that magnets are the new hotness ...

    I try to set my ships up so that they have at most three decks. The ones at either end have a tab under the bow/stern plate, and a screw in the middle area. The center deck typically has a screw at the back, etc. etc. See my NC for more details.

    https://www.scrapcombatships.com/commodore/nctour.html

    And just in case, I thought I'd mention that I'm a fan of either 4-40 stainless screws (and allen wrench), or for those who are allen wrench averse, something like these:


    View: https://www.amazon.com/UNICORP-THS3001-M01-F07-440-Plain-Nickel-QTY-10/dp/B01796SG2Q/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1E3BRN1WYB91E&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.l7POXnfut7bfy4aLkNkT-WRtVFtnYMOt5amTpVxWcrDgX_7mDnqmFm_5yPBbDYB8RS7xUOcMum_G1lJlYir1uBXel3t6DC9IhNOJClXznWnqUDiMIKJPp6cHCGI0EfWa0HTp6LddQxVTp_iqWa4yNsnrfNr78gg3sOh3WL2NDTBuQF43NyeznMOI3-nHbMgm_JiJEYmjBb9NvyB60sXy9lsxoj9v6WMJdD1KJgIohJo.7jtZgVxDPAHNXOiLVhO3GSIYy9UzZmwnUrTfhQi0Occ&dib_tag=se&keywords=4-40+brass+knurled+thumb+screw&qid=1743649844&sprefix=4-40+brass+knurled+thumb+screw%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-3


    Or, maybe the 3-32 version. Whatevs.
     
  10. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Vendor

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    The brass thumb nuts not only do the job well but also in a way kinda look nautical.

    On SJS hulls with mechanical deck retainment, the hulls typically have 4-40 heat set inserts put into the subdeck. I supply 4-40 button head cap screws that use a 1/16 hex driver to remove. On my own personal builds of these boats I will sometimes remove those and use 4-40 stainless knurled thumb screws, you can see this on my Jean Bart the Third build.

    Magnets are nice, but if ultimate deck retainment/seal is the order of the day then nothing can compare with a mechanical retainment of the deck. Except for maybe a buttload of strong magnets (see my JB3). This is why SJS Graf Spee kit uses mechanical for the rear step-down deck, but magnet for the main deck. The stern deck will be under water 70% of the time and needs to basically be submarine water-tight.