DKM Sharnhorst

Okay, so I bought a used Big Gun Sharnhorst...Mostly this is for me to find out if I'd like that side of the hobby more/less/just the same. First off my goal is to bring this beautiful boat back up to operational status for Big Gun format. My second goal is to complete the first goal in such a way as I can interchange between Big Gun and fast gun with as much ease as possible. Say maybe just have forward and back decks that can be interchanged between formats perhaps? Granted the balsa siding is thicker in Big Gun, but I figure I'm only ever going to make it to 1 or 2 battles of each type a year any how so residing isn't that big an ordeal. Speeds are different, but I have a HK 7ch 2.4GHz Tx/Rx and want to purchase an ESC for the throttle so once I get the radio and ESC figured out and I don't see that being to much of a problem with the right propulsion set up. And of course the most problamatic issue is the fact that this is only my second boat.

So majestic aren't they. Hopefully my wife will decide to build a boat too and I can install a third shelf!

All the old sturdy balsa mounting hard points...which aren't so sturdy any more. I'm going to rip it all out and start with a fresh empty hull. Also, the sub-deck/Caprail is disintegrating and so I'm gonna try and emmulate Mr. Rainier by using a 3/8" ply wood decking that I will route out to fit my (hopefully) interchangable decks.

The guy I bought this hull from included three motors which he intended to use. I like the idea and so will also be installing a third prop shaft and motor. Also will need to do some work on the Rudder posts as I intend to use a gear system.

So this is the current prop and rudder setup. Not well suited for fast gun, but then it wasn't initially built to be, plus a third center prop would probably help with the faster speeds of Fast Gun.

The bow guns and their mount assembly. Not sure how or even if I should change this setup. I think I'm just going to try and work around the fact that the Big Gun cannon systems are larger and design the sub-deck/caprail accordingly.

So yeah...she has seen some action. I'm going to try my hand at ABS plastic to make a new and shiny SS for her. I'm not sure the ABS will stand up to the beating from Big Gun weaponry like it does in Fast Gun.
Okay so that is all for now, I've got some more pictures of the rest of the innards that were sent with her upon purchase...at least I'm fairly certain I do...make that kinda certain....anyway I'll get some more pictures up as I go along, though me Des Moines needs a little more attention before I put her back in the shark infested waters of the Tangler at the end of May. I haven't really dabbled in Big Gun so any advise from the people who know of what to look for and what to make sure fits where and how would be a big help. Thanks
Ralph A. Dollar

 

That's a pretty well-used Scharnhorst you've got there. I'm not sure how you'll manage interchangeability between Big Gun and Fast Gun, since BG gives the Scharnhorst 1/8" armor and FG gives the Scharnhorst 1/32" armor. Armament- and guts-wise, it's probably a good idea to have two completely separate sets of gear, that you can swap out for one ruleset or the other. You don't want fast gun cannons at a Big Gun battle, and you're not allowed Big Gun cannons at a Fast Gun battle.

If I were rebuilding this ship, I would start by ripping out all the old wooden mounts. It's not modular in any way, doesn't look waterproofed, obstructs attempts at making a water channel, and is a little ugly. I would then build the ship for Big Gun with all the non-fast-gun-compatible parts (probably including bottle, batteries, and guns) in modular, easily-removable mounts. Next, I would remove all the modular components and build new ones compatible with Fast Gun. For the final step, I would add in a concrete-sealant water channel, to improve damage control and cover over the unsightly remains of the old, original hardware mounts.

I would be careful about adding in a center shaft. Make sure you can fit in the aft cannon before you try installing it. I've built a Big Gun Scharnhorst, and I literally could not fit in both the center shaft and the rear cannon. It doesn't really need it though, my ship was among the best-handling battleships in the WWCC, even with the same prop/rudder arrangement that you've got on this boat here. Just pay attention to your weight distribution, make sure you've got good range of motion on your rudders, and don't cavitate your props when accelerating hard.

Lastly, how is the gun height on the cannons you currently have? Most Big Gun clubs do have rules about gun height, and the "turret cover" I see in the first picture suggests that may be an issue for you. Easy to fix with a dremel, but still a possible issue.

 

The only thing that I would suggest, is that you look at using foamy for the SS.
Foamy stands up VERY well in BIG guns combat.

 

Foamy?

 

ooh, yay! super structure stuff for big gun, this was going to be my next question, so what is Foamy?

 

Currently the SS is balsa and whatever I use it won't be reusing...I would hazard a guess that there is 1/2 pound of ball bearings in the whole of the SS. I'd know that ABS plastic is mostly BB proof and so I had ideas of trying that out. Anyone in the Big Gun community who might use it and could tell me how it fairs? So to be a follower or anything...what is Foamy?
Oh yeah! Hey Knight remember that deal we were trying to work together on to get the funds for. This is the sharnhorst we were trying to figure out which of us would get. Turns out it is going to be a bit more work we thought.

 

For superstructure, you've got a lot of options, some of which are more appealing than others.

1) balsa. What you've already got there is balsa. It's lightweight, easily sandable, and overall easy to work with. It is also very easy to damage.
1.5) plated balsa. If you're worried about the balsa getting shot, you can plate it with something more bulletproof, like 1/16" aircraft plywood. You then hollow out the inside, and the result is far sturdier and just as light. The armor-plating process can be time-consuming, though, and bbs will always find the parts you forgot to armor-plate.

2) built-up plywood. Build the superstructure out of 1/8" 5-ply aircraft plywood. Cover a sheet of plywood with thin lexan or rubber, then cut it to the sizes and shapes you need for sides and superstructure decks.
2.5) On lighter ships like destroyers and cruisers, you can use 1/8" balsa armored with lexan or rubber, but it will not be quite as strong.

3) ABS plastic. I haven't tried this one myself, but I've heard it works very well. Same basic technique as the 1/8" plywood superstructure, but without the need to armor-plate it. I do not know what thicknesses of ABS to use.

4) foam. There are a number of different foams out there, ranging from squishy to solid to you'll-never-dent-this-stuff. Foam comes in different chemistries, densities, and production techniques, giving you lots of choice. For example, you could make your superstructure out of basic gun-testing foam. If there's an exit wound on any of the 2"-or-thicker sections of superstructure, somebody's gonna get called in for safety testing. The downside being that you have to replace it occasionally, or remove all the bbs. Another option is to use high-density foam, which is much more resistant to battle-damage. Just remember that many foams don't like CA glue, so you'll have to use something else instead.

5) there are lots of other options, as well. I've heard of paper, vacu-form, and lexan, and used materials such as solid oak, walnut, and PVC pipes. For secondary turrets, I suggest you try Strike. I know the guy who makes their detail parts, and I saw him make turrets for a Bismark, a while ago. They're very nice, very nice indeed.

 

Foamy is for sale in any craft store. Check out a Michaels or a JoAnn Fabrics. CA glue works perfectly with thsi stuff, it almost welds it together.
It can be easily cut to size and shape with a razor knife. I does not dull the blade like a lot of other foams can.

We use the thick foamy for building the SS, then cover it with the thin foamy.
It makes for a light weight and durable SS.

I have a Mogador, and I have been building a new SS out of Foamy so that I will be able to arm a turret or two and the forward torpedos without makeing her top heavy.

 

Now that I see the condition that she is in, I am almost glad that I did not get her.
She will be a lot more work than I was looking for.

 

Ah, I did not know it was a brand name. Thanks.

 

For the most part, Foamy comes in sheets, and various colors. (I just recently picked up several sheets of gray foam for the new SS for my MOG, that way I will not need to paint it!)

I will take photos of my next SS build and post them.

 

I now have my Des Moines back in order so it's time for a trip to the dark side. I peeled, hacked, and sanded untill all that is left is the fiberglass base hull...and the bow float.


A previous owner installed a plywood strip running along the outer edge of the hull top so as to make it easier to put siding on. My plan is to remove said strip and try to reinstall a stringer. So here is my question to all of you combat boat fanatics: what is a good way to install a stringer in a fiberglass hull that has already had those areas cut out? Keeping in mind that I have no fiberglassing experience. Okay so one more pic showing the stern inside where a lot of the old balsa hard points were.

I'm hoping to start work on the caprail assembly later this afternoon...or maybe later this week...whichever works best with my honeydo list.

 

Hmm ... could try to install a wood stringer.

Mayhaps attach a 1/8" square basswood stick behind the ribs at the stringer location with epoxy cement. Then fill in between the ribs over the backing stringer with 1/8" x 1/4" aircraft ply strips. Final step would be to sand the stringer to the contour of the hull.

A bit tedious, but would get the job done and be strong enough to stay in place.

 

(Clark)you wouldn't happen by chance to have any pictures of that would you? I like the sound of that though I doubt I could pull it off.