This is a collaboration of a group of captains with the goal to have an "inexpensive entry boat" to get other potential captains into the hobby. These can also be finished by experienced captains to provide a loaner boat at club battles. We need you to "think outside the box" on this, as our group considers the hull expendable. If the damage is too great to repair, the captain would just remove the internals and place them into a new hull.
First, the most exciting part of the kit, the BOAT STAND! Yes, no more bending the props or rudders on the table when the boat is set down. Simply take a pair of scissors and cut around the trim line.
Still working on final placement of items, but you will get a sheet of plastic (40 thousands thick). Just use scissors or a sharp knife to cut around and assemble the details. If anything gets shot of in battle , just order a new sheet and build/replace the missing part. All you need is scissors, knife, superglue and patience.
Deck level has the superstructure molded to it, its up to you how you want to connect it. Underside view
Now on to the hull. How many ribs should I have, what size tape do I need to mark the ribs? Worry no more! The hull is molded with the ribs already built, all you need to do is cut the plastic between ribs.
Bonus time! The subdeck is already molded to the hull. The two are attached with strong glue, so no worries of delamination. Just cut the plastic between the subdeck (where the holes are cut).
To go between the spacers on the subdeck we have clear plastic. The film is blue, but the plastic is clear. The captain would use tape to hold it on, this will waterproof the top of the hull. Please note that the top deck fits over the subdeck so everything looks nice and clean.
So why plastic? 1. Super light weight, this is a scale hull with no 3/8th added 2. Easy to repair, if you have built a model kit then you are already experienced. 3. It needs to be battled as a "sniper", so it really should not take a lot of damage. We are wanting this to be for rookies to get into the hobby and stay. 4. Lower cost compared to other materials. You would never use plastic on a ship with sidemounts or that is more than a cruiser. Stayed tuned, will be building with all the parts that will be offered with the kit. IE motors, motor mount, rudders, ESC, regulator, and other items.
Nice motors, drive shafts and stuffing tubes. Not pictured are the couplers used to attach the motor to the shaft.
Regulator. It has a gauge on it that must be removed, and on the other side is a filling that has to be replaced. Plugs/adapters will come with the regulator. Also, my version of "tux the shipyard inspector" is approving this particular piece of the build. "Boo the magnificent" will be overseeing the build phase.
Did you vacuum form the Revell kit? Some thoughts: You can use aluminum backers on the ribs and deck edge for more durability. A Spartan solenoid will save a bunch of weight over the Kip. 1/4" OD tubing from reg to solenoid to avoid the expansion tank. Molded channeling with motor mounts, stuffing boxes, pump base? Drop in pre-molded penetrable sections out of thinner polystyrene? I can do a detailed thread on converting a washer pump (like I did with my Mogador). It's more compact than the BC pump.
(Aluminum tape?) A Spartan solenoid will save a bunch of weight over the Kip. [/quote](possible 3d printing of the brass part to save weight) (will look at that) (3d printed motor mount and hold down for the pump) (not sure what you mean. To keep cost down a single sheet is used. Just cut out between ribs, cuts like butter) (We wanted something they can buy off the shelf and to support other vendors. More experienced captains will modify to their liking)
Thanks, looking at modifying like the real Fletcher and adding in 14 scale feet to make a gearing. Will see how well the Fletcher does for the hobby.
