So this will be a thread of my build of HMS Iron Duke. New to the hobby, so this is my first build. While thinking about getting involved in this hobby I found the build threads to be really helpful in deciding if I could actually do this, so I hope that mine will be some help. Also, I'm building a 5 unit ship as a first model, which is a bit less common, so we will see how it goes. The hull and hardware is from Battler's Connection. I've had the kit for about 2 weeks, and my goal is to have it battling by this fall. I'm doing the build a bit backwards because funds are a bit tight: I'm going to get the model moving and deck and superstructure built, and then fit the cannons. I'm using other ID build threads + the plans to hopefully place my internals where they won't interfere with cannons. Drilling out the prop shaft holes: Pretty straightforward, mark exit locations from plans and drill, then combination of drill + round file to get the shafts oriented as level and tight to hull as I could get them. Glue shafts (including outer dummy shafts) in with epoxy putty ("PC7 Epoxy") Note the custom made, high performance, alignment guaranteed support system in blue (tape). Reasonably happy with shaft placement, so drilled and epoxied rudders and support shafts. Actually had a bit of trouble with this step with getting the rudder posts to stay straight. Ended up using the rudders on the table to support the posts. Also got the motor mounts glued in after cutting down some wood for spacers. Worked out ok. And finally, started messing with internal arrangement and wiring. I love these 15AH LiFe batteries that I found a link to on this site, so hopefully they will work out.
Looking really good! Nice job the shaft installation. That's a part that even some of the vets have trouble doing.
Thanks beaver, we will see how it works once I get the motors mounted and running. On a more general note, do most people use gears to connect their rudder servo to their rudders? I got some pushrod parts with my kit but I think I want to go with gears, mainly because I think it looks cool. Anyone have a negative experience using gears on their rudders?
Gears or 1/5 pitch timing belts are better than pushrods, go with the gears they work better in all ways.
Gears if you can fit them. Pushrods can flex under load and cause a potential failure point. Check with the local captains on what brand they are using, that way if you are away from home battling and you need a replacement the others may have spares.
Can't go wrong with gears. Here's the install on my Barham which might help you on your install. https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/hms-barham-fastgun.443773/page-5
And to confuse you even more, here is my setup on Suffren using more commonly available gears from Battlers Connection. https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/suffren-build.443108/page-41
Thanks for all of the rudder replies. I grabbed some gears from servo city that I think should work. No pictures on this update but I mounted the motors and temporarily wired them and the bilge pump up to test the radio. After a bit of fiddling I got everything working. Very cool to see the props spinning on command. The cheap esc I got works great for the bilge pump. Going to get the rudder assembly mounted and then get the deck sanded down to fit. Hopefully will get some action shots in the kiddie pool after that. More pics soon.
More work done: Finished the rudder mount version 1 and put the Duke in the pool: Good news was the motors worked great. Forward and reverse with no hesitation. Bad news is the rudder mount did not work. I ordered the fine pitch gears from servo city, and the gears were skipping over each other whenever some propwash hit the rudders. Too much play in the mount + small teeth= back to the drawing board. So ordered the gears that BC has on their site and will try again. Was fun to bounce the model off the walls of the pool with the remote. Also began working on the superstructure. I bought some rigid insulation and carved the shapes of each level out of that. The plan is to armor the lower superstructure levels with abs sheet glued on. It seems to be working pretty well so far, but we will see how it all comes together.
Looking good! While your building the superstructure, you'll want to think about making it part of a recovery mechanism. I'm working to add a recovery line to a new-to-me Iron Duke. Use dowels to locate it on the deck but make it loose enough to float off freely. My plan is to put an eye bolt in the aft deck cross member and tie it into the bottom of the hull. I'll run paracord from the forward superstructure/float to the eye bolt. That way one could pull the ship up out of the water stern first. PS. What's the green thing in the pool pic?
Xanthar: Yeah, I was thinking of using the entire forward superstructure as a recovery float. Locating the superstructure with dowels sounds like a good idea. The green thing is the handle of my hammer; I threw a few tools into the hull to try and weigh it down a bit closer to actual battling weight.
Good point. I like the idea of securing the superstructure laterally, so maybe I will use some plastic or fiberglass dowels. I have a feeling that a rookie in a class 5 ship is making some members of the axis persuasion very happy. So I better make sure my float works!
We won't sink you until everyone verifies that your boat works, and let you shoot us first a few time. Any chance you will make it to the Hagerstown battle?
Plan is to have the model ready for the battle in the fall at Hagerstown. I'm moving down to DC in August, and will be pretty busy for most of the summer, so I'm trying to get everything to a good spot before the move, and then hopefully just final additions/tweaking after the move.
Once you move down to DC, we meet in Annapolis on Friday nights. Thats a great time to bring your boat, get tips and see other boats in person. Nice work so far.
