has anyone tryed these sorts of props to help with getting unstuck from weeds and other pond crud, ive read the AUSBG rules and it only says that the ship must have no more the number of props that the real ship had, nothing about number of blades,
OOOOOOOH, pretty! Those Raboesch props are so nice. That's the scimitar type you have pictured there, they look....evil. I think there's an Iowa in the AusBG that runs these, but I don't know if it helps him with weed entanglements.
really? we can run these? swweeeeeet, im totaly puting four of these things on my Richelieu, they do look quite evil indeed, perfect if i go on the axis side, as for weed entanglements, i wonder if you can sharpen these props...
Hi Burnsy and Darren, Darren will guess who I am soon enough as he wants to be a superb cat too! The AUSBG rules dont say how many blades you can have on your props, condensed they say 1- the ship may not have more props than the real thing, 2- they all need not be installed/fitted/operational sort of thing. 3-they have to be in the same position as on the real thing. Although we may have to change the last one to say something like "all props must be in the same position relative to the rudder" due to issues with enlargment of rudders and problems this has caused but that'll be discussed in June to see how the members feel and what they want to do. There was a T2 Tanker with those props and an Iowa. what they found was that they like higher RPM to operate which is good for the efficiency of the motors and battery life, but bad for acelleration and stopping as the Max RPM permissible is only that needed for scale speed ahead and no more. In reverse they are particularly bad as they are designed more for subs and modern ship scale model replication. A lot of modern ships have this style of prop and they dont of course run lots in reverse or often have to pull up quickly to stop ramming another ship. While they look as if they should throw weed and mine entanglemend devices off you will note that the owner has changed them back to normal 3 or 4 or 5 bladed style props as there is a minelayer in his club that has caught him too many times. For your own good dont sharpen your props, they will cut fingers just as easily as weed! Cheers
indeed, i think ill go with a more scale looking prop, although they may look cool, they sound like 'all show no go' kind of props from those experainces, like auto salon cars and dont worry about me sharpening them, spending hours with the dremel getting them to a razor like piont, laughing madly at the weeds that they will slice though.... thats just me being silly, although... i may chrome my props
i make my own prop out of brass copper aluminum and steel sheeting also what does every one here use for motors? i use Drill motor since i build 1/72 scale they work perfectly but i wont recomend them for everyone also the all have to be the same type i order from the company that manurfacture for craftsman tell them that i repair tools get the cheep too any one need some?
Drill motors (often 550s) are notorious amp hogs, especially when stalled. A 550 can draw over 85A. In 1/144 scale, at Big Gun speeds, a pair of geared-down Speed 400s will drive a fat, 6' battleship well over maximum speed (Richelieu was more than 10 knots over, and had to be throttled back). Cheers,
