Ok now for Yamato..kinda of self explanatory New Drive motors New pump hose New Pump kit. Motor not pictured here
Have you tried removing the outer covers off the motors? I was told some time ago that the covers slow the motors, but help them provide more torque. Never tested this myself but when I saw your motors, I wondered if the info given to me was right.
The covers are the semi circular tin pieces on the motors in your pictures. The band causes the magnetic field to change in the motor. This results in more torque (I believe) but slower rpms. Take one off and note the difference.
I will definitly try that. I think my Yamato has the bands off but I think MO have have them still on. I think Roma may have the bands still on. Ok Iceman I will give it a go and report here any difference. Thanks for the info.
Today I worked on Yamato. I removed the prop shafts and regreased the stuffing tubes, Removed the cooling coils around the motors and removed the old and tired motors(since 2001) . I had inadvertently snapped one of the pick up tubes on the starboard side in half. No replacements anywhere. What to do. I tried to bend a brass tube but couldn't get the 45 degree bend without kinking it. I also have a stubborn setscrew that I stripped in frustration trying to remove it. I managed to get the gear drive wheel off but that set screw is still stuck there. While I was removing it I had broken the motor mount from it's platform base that it was mounted on. I could see that it was soft and needed replacement. The port mount is still attached and solid. So looks like one side needs work. I can't get the Nylon 28tooth gear here. The motor mount is the Traxxis kind that SWAMPY used to sell. I am going to contact Stephen of Strike to see how fast I can get one shipped here. I like to keep the cooling system as it has worked great in keeping the motors cool and efficient. This will delay me getting the Yamato 's engine room back to operational status. Dang set screws. Anyway I wasn't expecting any issues with replacing the motors but one thing led to another. I checked for replacment cooling coil packages and their there but none with the pick up tubes. Just the plastic ones that anchor to the back side of speedboats. My props don't generate enough force to get water that far up the plastic flat intake mount. The tubes were positioned behind the props in the prop wash. Well just to the edgeof the props. It would catch the wash with every rudder turn. I needed the space to turn the rudder so the tubes were off center in the props hub.
Another alternative for a water cooling source is to tap the bleed hole (if there is one) on the pump. For instance, on the BC pump I replace the brass bleed port with a 10-32 thread 1/8" nipple fitting and run a piece of model airplane fuel line from it to the cooling coil. Whenever the pump is on (normally within the first 5 minutes of a sortie), the bleed port forces water through the cooling coil. The pump will still prime without any problems.
Excellent ideas guys thanks. I took a torch to a piece of brass and heated it red hot then gently tapped it while it was hot. I got the bend perfectly. Then I trimmed the upper stem and reinstalled the tube. Whew. That took care of it very well but I will keep your suggestions in mind if I run into that sort of problem again. I like that idea of running a hose from the pump casing to the coiling coil. I think I can modify my coil for that. Thanks RichelieuBB.
Finished wiring up the drive and pump motors. Throttle switches are rewired. Working on the main battery harness and pump harness to connect to the pump switch and batteries. One motor is reinstalled on the right side of the model with a cooling coil wrapped around it.
Ok both motors are now installed and have been tested. They work great so far. Throttle swtiches with servo is mounted. Cooling coils are back on the motors. I assembled the pump and attached the motor. It will be tight squeeze between the universals of both motors. There's bareley enough clearance on the sides of the housing but all I have to do is make a mount that will secure the pump and keep it from moving when it's on. THe battery harness is done and I tested it so it works just fine. So next is to hook up the pump to the harness and dedicated pump switch. I will build the servo tray first before I do that. I hope to have Yamato's innards completed by Tuesday and then I can begin the resheeting of both Bismarck and Yamato.
Yamato's servo tray has been improved on and modified. Just need to modify the placement in the hull, put the servo cams back on and hook them up to the receivor. Looks like the plasti-dip is no longer available however I was able to order 3 cans black color that were the last ones left in the store's stock. I did start sheeting the bow section port side of Yamato.
Plasti-dip will pulll free in short order, better to use Scotch Coat. All the servos that I had done in Plasti-dip failed and when redone with Scotch Coat they hold tight for years.
Liquid tape isn't much better than Plasti Dip either. Water will work in between the rubber and the electronics and stay to corrode and make life miserable for the poor captain that uses it. Heh. Ask me how I know. Scotchkote sticks to whatever you apply it to and will keep water from getting under it.
I wonder if contact cement would be good for waterproofing like scotchkote? They seem to be about the same amount of mess coming out of the can. Ron Hunt
Scotchkote is not an available option in Canada. or at least in this part of the country. Plasti-dip is really the only option available here
In lue of other materials, I would use epoxy or wax pot them like my old reciever was, just probably not good for 107' weather
I saw a video on Youtube where a guy waterproofed a servo by injecting the case with Mineral Water which seems to displace water. He tested the servo water several feet deep and operated the servo while it was underwater. Seems to work just fine. I do have Mineral Water and I will try that method to see if it works.
