I can see why. Stephen did a great job on it. And now the joy of cursing gets passed on to me :blink:
Well I am now back to working on the Tennessee. I have decided on a change of how the batteries are going to be placed in the ship. I have deiced to stand them up and then place the co2 bottle in between. So today I have installed the foam board into the hull. Once they are dry I need to get some fibreglas resin to make an area in the stern to mount the rudder servo.
Well I started back at the Tennessee this evening. I was prepping some balsa for the PE I decided to continue on and assemble the superstructure. The fits level has now been attached to the deck. Tommorow I will start building up the levels.
Went to start on the rear deck and I noticed a problem. The rear deck was 1/8 sintra and there is a crack in it. Which leads to the next question of how to replace it. THe sub deck on the ship is all wood but to lighten the ship I used sintra for the main rear deck with the hatch cut out of it. How do I gut the entire sintra deck without disturbing the wooden subdeck. Any thoughts.?
Well the sintra deck came off actually rather easy. So now it is to rebuild the back deck. I did notice one thing with the sub deck. There was a section that the resin did not hold very well and it came away from the side. So maybe it was just as well the sintra cracked. However the back is going to be one big hatch. I just now have to mark where the barbettes will go and then reinstall.
I had removed my sintra deck from the VDT. I had deck cut from sintra for Tirpitz but realized that this material won't hold up. Ok for radio boxes and servo holders and building detail bits and stuff but I won't use it for decks anymore.
I was using the thin sintra for the deck. I think anything thinner than 1/4 inch thick is pointless except for detail.
Yeah, I use the 1/4 inch stuff on Scharnhorst for two decks now and it held up fine, no cracks or breaks. Gonna use it on ISE too. The SS is also made of it so we will see how well it holds up. J
Thankfully the 1/8 stuff came up very easily. I just have to sand down some areas where some resin build up
Hey Paul, how about taking and posting some pics of the Foam SS. I would like to see it, maybe just even stacked upon itself if you don't have it glued yet. You could always try plumbers goop to put it together, shouldn't damage it and that it what holds Scharnhorst together. After the issues Stephen had he may like to see it too. J
Oh I will. Once I get the rear deck and superstructure redone. I have been using a mix of marine goop and ca to build it.
Started to paint the foam battery trays. I am having to paint by hand as there are no latex spray paint to be found anywhere. It is a slow process. Next will be to cut the holes for the barbettes and install it into the wooden deck.
Foam battery trays have been painted. Now they can be installed.Tommorow I will mark where the barbettes go as I am replacing the rear deck
The battery trays have been secured. The test with silicone worked well. I have started looking at internal placement. I have decided to move the bottle up between the batteries from the bow. My throttle switch will be to one side of the bottle. I am looking at making a box to hold the servos to run the cannons and pump.
Hey Paul, I have been using a 'lock n lock' box from Walmart in Scharnhorst since I have been using her. I used goop to seal up the holes I drilled in it and haven't had a leak yet. I am going to use a bit of silicone this year along the top seal because it is 4-5 years old and the plastic does dry out and get brittle. There is a pic or two in my file manager and I can take some new ones if you want. J
I have several small lock n box but never used one in a ship yet. However they are pretty sturdy and the lids lock down nicely.
