I'm with Marty, I would use a bit sturdier wood for the sub deck also. I use 1/4 ply but you have to watch the weight.... I like to be able to pick my boat up by the subdeck (made that strong).
I am open to suggestions on the sub deck. The Main deck will be 1/8 th Sintra. What I am looking for is a light weight wood to create the subdeck.
Tenneessee can easily accomodate the 1/4" plywood sub deck, you will have holes in it anyway for access and it will not have a tendancy to warp etc if it is a plywood as you have grain structure running in a few directions and it does a great job of supporting the sintra deck. (Tenneessee model weight should be just below 26 pounds so weight should not be a issue with the subdeck) Have fun! DO you have turrets?
Paul why not order the subdeck for the Tennesee from Strike? You would only have to sand it down on the edges to fit in the hull . The frame work is thick and very strong.
I sent an email of to strike to see if they sell a separate deck kit for the California/Tennessee. If not I will see what Maritime hobbies has in the way of wood to create a sub deck.
I did contact Strike about plans and a Tennesee deck. So I decided to place the shafts in today. They are help in with CA so if I need to make an adjustment I can move them.
You're going to want them closer together, basically as closr together as you can get them without causing binding issues on the rudder and on the hull. You need as much flow from the props coming over the rudder for turning. Unless those are the dummy (unpowered) shafts.
Those were the powered shafts. I do see your point. I have made a change to get them closer together. The two props are angled towards the rudder hole. The props do have clearance from each other when spinning.
That's a lot better than the first photo. Try to get them close to the rudder, it will help with the turning. Maybe stretch them towards the back if you don't have them glued yet.
That is about as close as I can get them without either the props touching due to the angle. Although the rudder is not in the picture. When the rudder is in the difference from the end of the props to the rudder is 1/2 an inch.
When I did my Arizona I got the props to just about touch the rudder. if you can't move them back and lessen the angle a tiny bit, that's understandable. But if you can.....
I tried to move them a little closer but this is about as much as I can get it. There is still the half inch gap but the props are closer together angled at the props. I might need to move the rudder hole in slighty.
No we're required to have them in the relatively scale location. it allows for some adjustment as long as it is not extreme.
The next step will be to resin in the shafts. Once that is done I will get the rudder installed. So that will be a later in the week project.
Before you do that make sure you line up your motors in thier mounts with the prop shaft to make sure it is all aligned. A perfect or near perfect is very important. When deciding on how close your props will be ensure that the props size you are using is the correct size. If you feel that you may need larger props than your going to have a problem when you need to switch out different size props.
Good Point. I think I will run it direct drive and use the drag disks to slow it down. I have dog bone and collars. The prop sizes are 1.25 inch props. There is a bit of room but not enough if I upsize props. I think I will make my motor mounts and see how it connects to the shafts.
