VVaholic, I noticed you mentioned using mineral-oil waterproof servos. Could you provide further detail on them? I'm curious how you made them, as well as what sorts of depths you tested them at. Also, what O-rings did you use? Thanks!
Ok guys, coming back from the dead. Will start by posting pics of current changes (one of which is dave's water channeling mesh). Pic's tonight- downloading them now. Taking out the box has opened up a new host of problems/solutions. Major issue is how to manage weight in a cruiser.
Hey, i am thinking of one of these. What did you use for ribs? 1/4 or 3/8 inch? How many? Distance in between? Thanks for any information. (** Note- If you dont follow IRCWCC or MWC rules, disregard this**)
Changes from the build This is the "old" box that would stop trash from getting to the pump. Screen was on the rear and sides (removed before pics). Cumbersome and way overkill. The box was great but takes up a lot of room and adds weight. Now that the electronics are waterproofed this is no longer needed. Batteries are very nice, but expensive. Trying to shoe horn in a larger battery (more on that later). Rudder box, this actually failed on the Aoba so it has been replaced with a mineral-oil servo. What's left of the pump cover. Got to fill that hole and make a new holder for the servo. Using epoxy to fill the sides, will smooth out and paint. It's not very pretty right now. [] Now working on the guns. First is to decide C or D turret. C would be great for long range sniping, but that is not my style. So D it is. I drilled out the base and made the bottom of the turret and will mount the guns to it. Then I can take off the turret and tweak the guns. The original idea was to make a hold bar in the base of the turret, but the guns set too low. I will make holder in the neck of the tee for the 1/8th bar.
Calculate the number of ribs and evenly space them. Makes for an easy sheet. If it was a hug -n- slug ship you would want more ribs in the front or near the haymaker. Do you have the rib calculator program?
No, i dont have that program. I was looking at you pictures, and i noticed that there were 18 or 19 ribs, with less spacing in the stern and the bow, and then a larger spacing amidship. If you know where i can get that program, or someone who would run it for me, then give me the data, I would be very thankful. Not that i am not now. Thanks.
Wow, crzy, i forgot too. I cant wait to get started, too bad I have to wait for some funds to come in. I want to order right now. In fact, I wish the parts were delivered right now. In some anxious to get started. Thanks for the info.
I don't want to hijack this build with too much other info but I did find these: This will convert to any scale: http://ebasic.easily.co.uk/05800C/03D03B/scalecalc.htm http://www.largescaleplanes.com/tips/RatoMarczak/scalecalc/scalecalc.html http://home.iprimus.com.au/stooch/quickscale/ I will post the rib calculator program after I get home
OK, I have the program but as it's an .exe I am not sure how to post it. Justin, can I send it to you? Update: stern guns are in as well as the pump outlet. The rudder servo has a new home and the gear boxes have a new cover. Pictures later.
Here's the gun parts and silver solder. I will have to cut the neck at the right angle and length. First I mount the guns and see how far down the uptube goes. You can see I added a small tube in the neck of the tee and the 1/8th rod passes through it. The gun is held to the upper deck by the tee and the magazines. The mounting brackets on the deck allow a zip tie to be used to secure the magazines. This makes for a rigid gun platform, but cut the zip ties and remove the 1/8th rod and you can do a quick lakeside repair. This is the pump outlet. I like to make the outlet a permanent part of the deck so there is no slipping below and filling the hull (Been there, done that, got the shirt).[] The deck piece is attached to the subdeck with a stainless steel hex bolt (no rusting). The mail deck can still be removed and let the pump stay in place. Again, this makes for easy repair at lakeside. Thanks to Dave for the custom made outlet!
Update. Guns in, pump mounted and outlet good to go. Rudder servo in place. Next is the blast shield (lexan). Have to mount points on the ribs to attach the hooks. Can someone post info on waterproofing the following: Team Delta large switch (motors), and the Team Delta firing board. I plan for these to be mounted without a water proof box.
Ask David, I am sure he knows. I am starting to do mine here soon, but I understand it is simply setting all switches how you need them first and then useing 20 min eposy on the back side first and then the top side. Be sure to seal all the pieces.
To waterproof TD boards just get all the connections set and the DIP switches in the corect positions and slather on a few coats of scotchkote. This is what my TD pump switch looks like.
I dont know how long it lasts. It seems like its some sort of rubber/plastic type compound so it seems like it should last a long time. I like it more than epoxy for most jobs because it can be removed so you can change dip switches or whatever. If you have something you never need to touch, like a reciever or something, then I'd use epoxy.
