I have used epoxy and scotchcoat, so far both have work fine with no problems. Cover the top of the dipswitch with same electrical tape cut to size, then cover it with the scotchcoat. That should prevent the scotchcoat from getting into the switch, while at the same time seal the tape to the top of the dipswitch. My boards in the Kumano look judt like Snipes, I had no problems with them at Nats.
Is the scotch coat found at the home depot stores or the like? Any particular brand name? I am thinking of using it for the mineral oil servo as a coating for the outside of the case. Dave and snipe, what type of wire are you running on your boats? My next step is to wire the Cleveland and I am looking for reliability.
Yeah I think I got a can at a Home Depot or Lowes and then I got a can at the local electronics supply shop. This is the stuff. Visit this site I use noodle wire, either Deans or Banebots, they are pretty much the same as far as I can tell but you can get the banebot stuff in a wider selection of guages. Tower Hobbies has the Deans and the BaneBots website or Trossen Robotics website has the BaneBots wire. I use 12 gauge for motors/pump but thats probably overkill 14 guage should work just fine. Wire for the solenoids and TD boards and lights for night battle and such I use 22 guage.
Yep Lowes has it, HD does not carry it. I like the Banebots wire myself, the insulation is a bit thinner, so even thou its quite flexable, its easier to work with and less weight. I use 14 ga, for batteries, pump, and 16 ga for drive motors. 22ga for all the secondary stuff. I have had no issues with anything burning up so far.
Just looked at your guns and thought "that cannon setup is a prime candidate for coil mags, or flexible hoses for the mags". Why? So you could fit an adjustable link or even a servo and give it variable depression.
I lose to much pressure with the flexible line, not a fan of that method. As to elevates on this boat, there is not a lot to be gained from a few degrees down angle. I expect to be able to hit about 3 feet from the stern and pick on poor wounded axis ships. This ship has high freeboard that is not good for a cruiser to cruiser battle.
Thats for sure, Dons new Cleveland got pounded at Nats with its high freeboard. In the cruiser battle on Wed it went down both times.
Wondered how he did. The Cleveland is more of a "support" cruiser - excellent for rookies - in that it works best when the target is preoccupied. Great boat for zip in and out. The Aoba was at the other end of the scale. Low freeboard (so much so you always look like you are sinking).
Started work on the superstructure. Have to get this built so I can see how much weight I have to work with for batteries. The superstructure is going to be molded and cast out of foam (self expanding). Each deck level will be unique so that it can be replaced quickly. The decks are made out of plastic card (actually a for sale sign- cheaper than card from the hobby shop). I am including the portholes, doors, and a few odds and ends in the surface detail. hopefully the foam will replicate it well. The main gun master is ready, as well as funnel, forward superstructure, secondary, AA platforms (both types), and directors. Currently looking at some lightweight resin products that are able to float - thus lightweight. Pictures this weekend. If this turns out well, I can offer it to others.
I did the plug for the main turrets for the Cleveland for BC, and Tim made a mold out of it. So you can get the turrets from BC if you wanted to save some time.
I wanted a really detailed version. I have the bolts on the optic arms, ladders on side, blast bags and optic wings. It's all overkill but very cool and with the foam it weighs very little.
Progress on Super Structure Master main - still needs work Rear of main Foam secondary, same material the mains will be made out of. Portholes, doors, etc... This will be a single cast and the deck walkways added later. Just no way to cast at the same time. Funnel, more detail to be added. Gun tubs, still need to clean up and reshape for a better looking circle. Main level with top. This is ready to cast (top is placed on after casting.
Got the speed control, it's larger than I expected but should do the job nicely. Will also fit into the next boat on the ways. Pictures later this week.
Now ordering the blast shield material, this will be thin lexan from McMaster-Carr. The idea is to be able to see the ribs and provide a clean look to the interior. My plan is to use hooks on the ribs (every third one) and loosely mount it so that it moves when hit to help absorb the impact. Anyone try this yet?
More work done on the superstructure. First test with the mold material did not go well. Having to create a new level. Pictures later this week.
