HK-7X 2.4Ghz 7ch w/ 5 Model Memory TX & RX V2 (Mode 1)

Actually, Nikki, most of the modern 2.4gHz radios do not have a long antenna. In fact, on some of the newer ones, they have no antenna sticking out at all (it is molded into the carry handle).
It will take a while to learn the features and programming of the Futaba, but not that long. One of the reason I like the newer open-source radios, is that they seem more "intuitive" to me. But, I have had to learn Futabas, Polk's, and others along the way, so maybe that gives me a leg up and will for you, too.
Cheers,

 

I'm trying to find is an easy way to mount the rec. in the ship we I can make sure I get signal..

 

I went onto eBay and bought a set of longer aerials for my rx...made things much easier.

 

Nick,
Can you if you waterproof it, mount it on the superstructure or will it get shot off?
Nikki

 

Dear Nikki,
My advice:
1) definitely waterproof the RX. For mine, I took off the case and Scotchkoted it. Or, some captains dip it in Corrosion-X liberally (and repeat occasionally).
2) mount it high in the hull (velcro to the bottom of the deck works for me) as 2.4gHz does not penetrate water well. I would not mount it on the superstructure unprotected. Those Futaba RXs are a bit costly to replace if damaged. You might want to consider one of the FASST compatible RXs from FRsky (have not bought one and ripped into it, so cannot commont on how easy or difficult it is to open up), at least as a spare, like this one:www.alofthobbies.com/tfr6-a-futaba-fasst-receiver.html
Cheers,

 

Wreno,
Thank you! And I plan on waterproof it, as i have 7- 12inch or 20inch servo extensions, already In place, on the Reciver.. I was thing about Valcroing it to the underside Of my deck that comes off! Other then Scotchkote, will liquid electrical tape work as well or is that a bad idea?
Nikki

 

Heres the ebay item number for the extra long aerial....you will need two.

360661201796

 

Hey Darren,
Thank you!!!
Nikki

 

Liquid Electrical Tape is a bad idea. it tends to delaminate over time and trap moisture underneath it, making corrosion/shorting even worse.
Either take the RX apart and use 3m Scotchkote to coat the board (I also coat the final inch or two of the antenna to prevent water in the cable) but do NOT Scotchkote the connector pins (or you will spen a lot of time cleaning the Scotchkote off).
Or, dip the whole shebang, case and all, in Corrosion X, or Aeroplate - a liquid that will coat the circuit board and repel water, but should not interfere when you plug your servos in. Yes, do dry the Corrosion X off of the outside of the case - the idea is to thoroughly coat the circuit board inside, the outside of the case does not matter.
Do make sure the RX is bound to the TX before you start anything and that it is all working as intended.
Cheers,

 

hey Wreno,
thanks, I wasn't sure!!! I have the 20 inch servo extension in the receiver already!! that way i can waterproof it and not worrier about it get on the plugs!!!
Nikki

 

Actually, probably not the best idea.
Scotchkote is pretty aggressive (though it may not look it) and may actually wick into the plub by capillary action. I, personally, believe the better practice is to remove the case, Scotchkote the circuit board (being careful NOT to get Scotchkote on the business end of the pin, and then reassemble).
Or, if you are using Corrosion-X, the recommended practice is to just soak the whole RX for a bit (rurning it over, etc. to get around any bubbles), and, once you have drained it of the excess and dried off the outside of the case, then plug in the servo connectors, shich should displace the Corrosion-X on the pins. For what it is worth, I do not use this method, as I prefer the permanence of Scotchkote).
Cheers,
Wreno

 

OK, I was thing the pins need to be covered!!
Nikki

 

Guys,
will tool dope work if I do it each year???
Nikki

 

no.

 

think you, Chase...I was just wondering..

 

Dea Nikki,
Again, there are 2 primary tried and true methods.
The older one is to soak the RX in Corrosion-X or Aeroplate, then wipe the case off. This needs to be repeated periodically for best results.
The newer, and preferred by me, is to open the case and coat the board (except where the servos plug on) with 3M Scotchkote. I have done this on radios that have been in service for 10 years and it is very resiliant. I also Scotchkote both ends of the antenna wires to prevent wicking and internal corrosion. Again, this is applied to the circuit board(s) inside the case and then the case reassembled around it. You should wear latex or nitrile or dishwashing gloves and an old work shirt and do it over newspapers outside - smells bad and is gooey, sticky, and stringy. It will do its best to get on you and stain you and make you smell bad. A couple or 3 coats should be fine. I coat the edges of the board as well, just to be sure it is sealed. It may be messy, but you should only have to do it once.
I would make sure the receiver is bound to the transmitter first. Although the little pushbuttons for binding on some RXs should still work, no sense taking a chance if you don't have to.
Liquid Electrical Tape, Tool-Dip, etc. are a really bad idea as mentioned dozens of time in this forum - avoid for waterproofing your electronics.
Cheers,

 

guys,
I wasn't trying to getting anyway mad at me ok!!!
Nikki

 

Dear Nikki,
I don't think anyone is mad at you - I know I am not. We are just trying to give you the advice you asked for, which is basically:
For waterproofing electronics:
Tool-dip = BAD avoid it
Liquid Electrical Tape = BAD avoid it
Corrosion-X or Aeroplate - OK, but needs periodic renewal.
3m Scothkote = GOOD but messy, icky, and smells bad when applied - lasts a long time,
I hope this helps.
Cheers,

 

Thanks wreno.

I found a spot to put the Rec. but I'm not sure if its the safest!! http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss192/NASAAN101/383450_10200400460792237_93924929_n_zps0bfbcc08.jpg .. Let me know what you thing ok!!! its not held ni, it just setting by the wires, but I'm not leaving it that way!

Nikki