Good to hear mark will have his done soon. Hopefully that means he will be back on the water the next time I go and battle.
Got the Turrets installed today. We were working on my Kumano, Marc's Mogami, Ricks Scheer, and Don's Miami (Cleveland class) All 4 of them got on the water today, and did very well. Still need some touch up work and painting, but getting very close now. My sweet looking Kumano. Don's new Miami (Cleveland) As you can all see the Kumano is a much nicer looking ship than the Miami, the Miami is just very plain looking. Of course I play on the Axis side, so all the Allied ships are plain looking. []
Come on don;t get it wrong completely. Allied ships are distinctive looking once they are sinking below the waves.
All right, besides the safety pins on the guns the Kumano is finished. She is so nice looking I almost don't want to battle her, and let that evil Don shoot holes in her. Maybe we will just let him shoot holes in Marc's Mogami instead. [] In all her glory.
Thanks Curt, I say the same back to you about your Yamato, except I don't want to pick it up with my bad back, LOL. And the Mogami is also complete now, except for some painting. Got the wiring done on her, turrets completed. So the turrets and the bottom hull need to be painted, and the waterline added. This coming Saturday evening we will have twins on the water. I will get some video and pictures to post. They turn very well. When we were running around with Don's Cleveland, and Rick's Scheer, we had no problem turning inside their turns, keeping our stern guns on either of their bows, throughout a complete 180 deg turn. Twin 150% rudder rule. [] I don't really care for the rule when only a few ships get the 50% oversized rudders, but in this case I will make a exception. []
If I get a cruiser again other than GRAF SPEE...which I am waiting, I would love to have this ship in my arsenal of ships.. "MERCY...is somewhere between Murder and Massacre"
Ok, I was planning to work on Don's Cleveland a bit this evening, if I don't get called out to work with all these storms going on. I will take some pictures of the inside to post.
Well I finally got around to taking some internal pictures. The first one is what the CO2 system looks like out of the boat. I'm trying to keep them as simple as possible to limit the places that they can leak. For some reason, I do not seem to be very lucky, and always manage to have a leak somewhere. With this setup, with just about everything soldered, the possibility of leaks is very limited. And here are a few pictures of the internal layout. The entire front 1/3 of the boat under the forecastle deck is empty. The Battery sits under the regulator, which holds it up so that it does not freeze. Under normal operation, all I will have to do is remove the center deck section, to rearm, change batteries, and charge the CO2. The on/off switch is under the upper reardeck turret, so you can see the wiring that goes from the plug in back, and the other plug runs up to the battery. I just finished putting my Battery packs together. Now it has 13.5 amps, with a peak current draw of 126 amps since each pack can do 10C, 42 amps. Of course if it ever did that, I think the boat would blow up. It weights over 1/2 pound less than it did with a single SLA 6 volt, 7 amp battery, and the weight is down lower. Each battery pack weighs 11 oz total. 33 oz SubC vs 44 oz for the SLA.
Very nice build! That's not something I see in fiberglass hulls very often, the emphasis on a neat and tidy interior. The brass is bright and shiny, the wires and gas lines are all neatly tucked away, the interior layout is symmetrical and neat, and I can't see a single drop of spilt-glue "scar tissue". Why, you could probably get half of your opponents to sink out of shame for not being so clean, and the other half to sink out of envy. I find it interesting how you put an accumulator fed by a 1/8" air line on one side of the solenoid firing mechanisms, but you use a long 1/16" hose with a quick-disconnect in the middle on the other side. I'm guessing it's intended for ease of maintenance, but doesn't the long, thin air line and quick-disconnect reduce the performance of your cannons? I'm also curious what those extra hoses are with the red things stuck in them, what the various circuitboards in the back are, and what the extra brass piece on the manifold on top of your regulator is.
Thanks Sean, hows the weather. I'm from Michigan, graduated from Franklin High, in Livonia, then I got out of the state, and have only been back a few times since. Kotori I can't stand a messy interior, I look in some boats, and wonder how they even work, besides trying to figure out why somthing is not working, and then try to fix it. With mine if somthing is not working, I know right where I need to look. I edited and added another picture with her new battery packs installed. The guns only need to be fed by a 1/16 in hose, and I do hate using the quick disconnects, but really did not have much of a option due to the step deck, with the cross member being in the way. With the new stainless steel barrels I found with a ID of .180, using my new toy to measure the FPS, they are doing right at 220 FPS, which is plenty. The extra peice is a discharge valve for the CO2, instead of firing the guns when the CO2 is cut off, you can just turn the knob on top, and bleed the CO2 from the system, one of the few peices I did not solder. I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say extra hoses with red things sticking out of them, but I will take a guess. I think you are talking about the Solenoids with the wiring, with a red mini dean connector attached maybe? The speed controller is a dual motor Dimension Engineering unit. I covered it with scotchcoat to waterproof it, its the unit under the receiver. In the far stern is a 10amp Dimension Engineering relay board I'm using as the pump controller. Due to it being about 1/2 the size and weight of a Team delta, that does the same thing, also 2/3 the cost. The little bundle to the side is the Team Delta firing cards. Instead of using just one, I added a diode steering board I made that I use with 3 TD cards. That way I can fire each gun one at a time, or fire both, my choice. I should be able to stay in the battle a bit longer that way. And with the massive battery capacity, since I can change batteries every sortie, since she is a cruiser, I should be able to run most ships into the ground. I think I answered all your questions. So far I'am very happy with how she has come out. She has been on the water 5 times now with not one problem, but I'm still making improvements everytime I work on her. Her steering is just unbelievable. Update - She was in the water yesterday for about 30+ minutes, ran fantastic. Marc's Mogami did the same, we did find his outlet hose has a crimp in it, where it is making a bend, so we need to replace the hose, and he still needs to paint his hull bottom. But besides that issue, it ran great also.
Here are some pictures of the guns I just finished installing with my new Stainless Steel, .180 super close tolerance barrels. Hopefully the BB's won't jam. I test fired the guns when they were out of the ship, and did not have a problem with jamming, but we will have to wait and see. I added the thin hose over the barrels, since the Stainless can be dented, and a barrel support at the end. Side view Top view Stern View
thats ships is very prettyi would want to buy one soo bad and do u still have the plans for it cause if u do could i buy theem off you?
