Lj's USS Texas(BB-35) SJS 3D Print complete Kit build

Cut thin strips to fit the casements.

 

That dosent look like the correct screen. Plus please don't fasten the bottom. The rounds will bounce off like a trampoline and make a second hole going out.

 

Got it. How do we water proof the outside and protect the paint?

 

The lacquered silkspan does a good job at that. Once it's painted, its good to go.

 

Well the reason I ask is because I’m having separation issues. Like I use tissue paper instead of silkspan. I used 3mmd spray glue and the contact cement and it’s separating after I paint it.

 

Example

 

What lacquer is used?

 

Check the tissue paper. A lot of the craft store stuff has a coating that doesn't allow the sealant to fully penetrate. It's one of the benefits of silkspan. Silkspan lets the adhesive penetrate and gives an excellent bond. Old school we used model airplane dope (nitrate/butylrate). Nowadays I just use weldwood and call it good.

 

This stuff also works well. You can probably find smaller packages. This is enough for 5yrs of running billboard boats. Lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0F62P2PQR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

 

Thank you I have been using weldwood contact cement. And 3m 77 super spray glue from the video. Then dollar store white tissue paper. I will switch to that teabag paper if that stuff works well. What do I do to seal the final coat of paint and any cracks or missed spots from poor balsa cutting.

 

When you apply the outer layer of silkspan using your weldwood, overlap the edges of the balsa by about 1/2"-1". That gives you a pretty good seal. The coat of paint on top of that is bonus. I usually sand the edges of the balsa fair to the hull prior to adding the outer layer of silkspan. Some folks will use drywall spackle as a filler in any gaps between pieces of balsa to keep it pretty. It's not essential and I usually skip it.

 

Thank you. This is really helpful.

sorry another question. Can I use water downed wood glue as a sealer?1/glue 2/ water

 

I wouldn't. You want to avoid adding anything to the hull that makes it hard. The more the balsa resists impact, the larger the holes the BBs make.

 

That makes some sense but I don’t understand how or why. Like how does making it harder make the bbs more likely to cause more damage than it should?

so dry wall putty will work for a waterproof and seal cracks?

 

No !!!! Don't use anything for drywall. That is really bad info.

 

What should I get and use to seal and fill holes in poor balsa cutting? Nomercy

if not drywall spackle?

 

Just use lacquer and strips of silkspan. Usually cracks on the seams are easy to cover with it.

 

Ok. Thank you. Nomercy.

 

As of July 30

Sorry, I haven’t been as religious as I used to be about posting but I had a low income spurt and a lack of build interest. It doesn’t help either that I was in Florida for a week last week. Again another financial bind. So, next week, possibly the following week, I will have financial stability again. Hopefully, I will be able to complete more of the build.

Enough, dribbling…
Build update.

It’s coming along looks very good and promising. At this point:
Hull- I need to go back over the balsa with proper build materials. (Silk span and model airplane dope)
Once, I have completed the internals, I will finish the building aspect and it will no longer be in Drydock-> Launched-> (Maiden Voyage-> Port-> Battle Ready) that's the hope.

Internals/ Electronics- Waiting on one order from Will. (Fire boards, and Some CO2 parts) Then, the last one from him when he is ready to sell solenoids.(Remaining CO2 Solenoids)
Currently I have these electronics Aftermarket NOT SJS: 2 Drive line Motors, 1 Rudder Servo, 2 Motor compatible ESC, 2/4 batteries,

My builders notes Before Florida: AS I SEE IT:
A rule for my ship weight that I found on IRCWCC- 34LBs MAX LOADED Weight.
My Current weight Unloaded WITHOUT BBs is 15LBs
Not Done- Cannons- Front Independent gun. Hull- Body Work, & Deck decorations. Internals- Water tight boxes or Waterproof Control board, rudder system connection (NEED chain or some way of connecting both sprockets), Bilge Pump Motor, CO2 mechanics, & a remote & Transmitter.
Completed- Cannons- 3/4 guns. Hull- HVAC inner hull screening, barbets armoring, & pre armoring. Internals- both motors mount and meshed, a recovery line bobber w/ 30 feet of 200lb braided Kevlar line, bilge pump pieced & mounted w/o motor, rudder & servo mounted.
Need to go to- Mountainland- 10x 1/4" caps for reloading system. Amazon- Tea bags, Pump Motor, 2 Batteries, Remote & Transmitter, 2 Switches, Fly fishing reel, 1/16 air fittings, & Dope. At some point: Decorative chain, & Anchors.

Had a photo shoot. After Florida. My wife's hand might be in some photos.

 

This is a ridiculously beautiful boat so far. Please any questions or help needed on anything ask because this needs to be seen on the water. Life happens man, but good job keeping it going these boats are a labor of love to get going for sure.