Yes, each turret will have its own gun. This is allowed in MWC, most captains opt not to do it as rotates usually don't work. Plus it is fun trying to get them to hit in the same general area, like I said I do not recommend anyone else to copy this build, might not work after everything is said and done.
I had thought about doing the same rotate layout in the captured battleship Konig Georg der Funfte... with less aluminum as I lack the cool toys. Then I realized 'I'm not Lou and have no cool toys' and went back to finishing the I-boat refit with fixed guns I love your work, Lou. We need you back at battles!!! XD
Been saving for many years, and spent too many hours watching DVD's and learning how to use the tools. I originally had a rotate made out of fiberglass and PVC, but it just wasn't solid and only a matter of time before it would break. With the birth of my girl last year, I haven't had much time to play with the boats, much less battle. I did go to the Brew in March, but was very disappointed, hence the rebuild. I will be back next year to the Region 3 battles. Started the cuts to the pipes, the idea is the large pipe will be a "sleeve" that stays with the deck, and the rotate assembly slides into it and is held in place with a couple of screws. Servo, magazine, and gun will all be inside the turret, so it should make it easier to trouble shoot at lake side. The largest pipe is the sleeve, in this shot you can see the excess has been cut away to form the legs, a bar will go across them and create the bottom of the support for the turret (sleeve is upside down in this photo). Still have to make a cut to the ring to remove the tight fit and allow the unit to slide in without a ton of force. The walls of the pipe are 1/4 inch, so they are very robust! The cuts were made using a band saw with metal blade (wish I had a metal bandsaw, but a good one is out of my price range). Each pipe was cut out at a specific length, so when assembled they are the correct height. Next step is to put the second pipe on the lathe and create the chase for the ball bearings. Then you have to flip that piece over and create another chase for the retention pieces so that if the hull flips, all the ball bearings don't fall out.
Rick's new Scharny has dual forward rotate's in it, and they work fine, off a single servo. He has had it on the water a few times, but is still working on the superstrcture, for the last 8 months or so. I figure he will have it done in about another 8 months the rate he is working on it, and the crazy amount of detail he is adding. I keep telling him, Don and I will just shoot most of that off anyways, why add it, LOL.
Here's the latest update, the chase has been made for the bearings to ride in. The sidewall of the turret will form the other side of the chase. The wall should be thick enough to prevent damage from a BB hit.
Did some more work last night on the stern area, realized that my setup was not going to work for the hose routing and where the speed control boxes need to be placed. So I had to cut new pipe (3/8 inch copper) and try a few new areas to mount the solenoids. The box on the left is just a left over that is being used for placement testing. Decided to run the electrical wire for the ESC's under the prop shafts, had to really press on the pipe to get it to fit. Have decided now to cut the bottom of the boat and install from that side. I will also have a T fitting so the motor wires can go between the mounts. This will all be accessible with a cover plate. Looking at the bow area the balsa blocks and foam have to go so that a new bottle holder and water channeling can be placed in there.
Read the first sentence of the build You bet it's going to be there. Now, will it work is another question.
Outer turret sleeve added to the holder (this will be under the deck). The holder has had the ring cut, this allows the sleeve to slide in and still support the assembly.
Is it possible to asexually lust after an inanimate object? I think it is. I think it will work better than the dual rotates being attempted on the Konig Georg der Funfte... But at least I can fall back on quad sterns if I blow the rotates Your rotates look bulletproof, man, you are an artiste (meaning that in a good way)! I mean, holy crap nice looking parts
Thanks Clark, still a long way to go (have to make lightening holes, powder coat, mount the servo) Does anyone have information on waterproofing the ESC's, wiring them, and using the program card?
I have the hobby king, 100 amp ESC's, trying to do the same as Mike's -Erin. I need to know what wires go where as well. My plan is to make a plug in with deans connectors and run the wires through the pipes. I read from David's build of the PE of getting rid of the switch, anything else for these ESC's and motors? I also ordered the pinions (thanks again David) and need the part number for the screws from McMaster. At the end of each pipe will be a fitting so that I can blow C02 and empty out any water after a sink (or just normal battle). Everything is hidden, but easily removed- tubing is in pipes, wires are in pipes, if I encapsulate anything the whole unit will be able to be removed for servicing. Rotates slide out of the deck and have the servo, magazine, and elevate piston in them. Anyone had luck with using Lexan for blast sheilding? Do the BB's bounce and cause exit holes through the skin? Thinking of keeping it "loose" and maybe two layers with a space between, I know some of those guns are hitting hard. I do not want to use the shower liner or tent material if I can help it. Keeping it clear makes the ship seem larger when looking in the interior. Thanks guys, keep the help or suggestions coming. Ultimate goal is to have the ship break in three parts and fit in a large suitcase so I can fly to some of the events and not worry about dammage (I will send it UPS). Now that I have the mill and lathe I think I can make a reliable joint in the hull.
Dave and I used different waterproofing methods on the ESCs. Dave took the clear plastic cover off, filled it with resin, and stuck it back on. I simply coated the esc with a spray rubber. So far, neither of us has had any water problems. Unlike Dave, I kept the switch on the ESC. He uses a Deans plug as an on/off switch for the entire boat's power system. Very slick. I tend towards the old way to plugging up the battery, then using the ESC switch to turn on the radio system. Again, both seem to work well so far. The motors do not need waterproofing. They will need the bearings oiled after each sink and at the end of the day to prevent the ball bearings from rusting and destroying themselves.
Thanks Mike. What wires go where, 2 for batteries and 2 to the motors? Do you have any pic's from your build(s) that you can post.
Yeah I use lexan (polycarbonate) sheet (i think its 0.03" thick) for the internal armor, a 2'x2' section is about $10 at mcmaster carr and is enough to do multiple ships. I haven't seen any exit holes while using it (2007-present). I just screw it to the ribs it hold up pretty well. Every now and again it will get dented from a hard shot but that's about it.
