Since the cans will be at opposite polarity, a single bb sitting between them can cause a really exciting time on the water. I'm surprised we haven't seen more incidents since these have been out there for several years. Think about this, the standard Traxxas Villian motor mount assembly that a lot of us still use, as of today, has a single aluminum heat sink as a motor mount for the gearbox. While it's true that we cut this in half to mount our motors, if we didn't, we'd have a direct short on a standard installation. I recommend to everyone to swap out any motor that has a lead shorted to the can. You're just asking for trouble at some point.
Yup the reason I went and got some from Tower Hobbies tried some 35t 540's on a whim instad of the Traxxas Titan Marines which are a 550. Update.. Box still mostly done like last time just pondering if I should add an additional switch on top of the ESC switch for power. Need to finalize the test buttons for my duals. Guns are mounted and I must say I kept my pa's old KISS concept w/ some growth and it looks like it could work. That means to do that half of my superstructure is done because I hide the guns in the rear portion of the superstucture w/ the tips of the barrels poking out of the turret. I made my own stucture even though I bought a houston structure from Stephen and Keri figured may as well give it a go. I will use their foam for my upper stucture of the Indy the lower portion is 1/16 3 ply sides w/ 1/32 3 ply for for superstructer decks. Things I need to do still... hope to be done in a month.. -Finalize expansion tank, solenoid installation -put in wood rib backers to allow for internal armor installation (goind to do that tonight I think) -finalize wt box -install rudder servo and gearing -install drag disk props -silkspan skin and skin the boat -finish superstructer (basically stacks, bridge, and rear 8" director tower area will do the catapults later).
only missing from the rear director tower is showing my breeches under it did this on the fly w/ my iphone..
Now the underside of the forward superstructure minus bridge and the barrel mount on the rear deck. I have one shim in it that I can take it out currently the barrels are pretty much parallel w/ the deck. I am hoping w/ shims I can change the angle of aim if I hope to later on.
The decks I sealed w/ a satin spar polyurethane. I was told that West Systems does not fair well to UV. For the painted portion should I just do that in polyurethane or should I do it in West Systems before painting? Over all not too bad for a first attempt at a build it could be worse. I already know of things I would do different. But my tune will probably change once I get on the water because that is where Mr. Murphy always comes into effect. However, I know the WT Box, wiring, guns and runing equipment is good to go they were in for a bit last summer when I nearly finalized my guts last year. WT box is an otter box w/ TD firing boards for my solenoids and a micro switch servo for my pump. I am using a Viper 40 ESC I got from Strike Models. The only other thing I was pondering is too put some foam in the rear above the stuffing tubes. So that when I go from reverse to forard it could alleviate the water rush to the rear. I don't think a water channel is needed or even good I want the batteries as close to the keel to keep the CG down. Just like in the Glorie.
Done -finalize wt box -install rudder servo and gearing (set up will put back in after internal armor is done) -put in wood rib backers to allow for internal armor installation (goind to do that tonight I think)... appended to doing it now.. To do -Finalize expansion tank, solenoid installation -install drag disk props -silkspan skin and skin the boat -finish superstructer (basically stacks, bridge, and rear 8" director tower area will do the catapults later). -oh... yeah forgot to mention.. Paint.
Done -finalize wt box -install drag disk props -install rudder servo and gearing (set up will put back in after internal armor is done) -put in wood rib backers to allow for internal armor installation (goind to do that tonight I think)... appended to doing it now.. To do -Finalize expansion tank, solenoid installation (real close just need to epoxy in place my anchor points for the solenoid/expansion tank) -silkspan skin and skin the boat -install internal armor -finish superstructure (basically stacks, bridge, and rear 8" director tower area will do the catapults later). -Drill subdeck to install dubro 4/40 inserts and drill holes in deck to allow 4/40 allen head screws to screw down my deck. -Paint -oh... yeah forgot to mention.. build battery packs when the 5000 mAh C cell NiMh batteries come in should be some time this week.
Pondering.. Even thought it is just a cruiser I am thinking of adding some balsa blocks in areas mainly forward 1/3 basically to cradle the CO2 tank and funnel water back faster and about 1/5 of the rear to alleviate water rushing to stern. What do you think?
good idea, I like to balance out the boat with some water in it so I can see how it is going to run when shot up. Also you don't want things shifting weight. In a cruiser, that will take you right over in a turn...
